Jumaunji

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Housing

Housing:
 
Chameleons should never be housed in fish tanks or glass aquaria for that matter; an exception being the leaf chameleons (brookesia, rhampholeon). They require appropriately sized screened enclosures. For a Veiled (C. calyptratus) or Panther (F. pardalis) and most of the larger chameleons or the ever active montane chameleons, a minimum cage size should be 24x24x48 inches (l x w x h).
 
Glass is not advised mainly because of poor ventilation which usually leads to respiratory diseases that chameleons are very prone to. It is also very difficult to keep clean and clear especially with the heavy misting that will take place. 
 
The type of screen you use is also an issue. Most only aluminum window screen should be used, otherwise hardware cloth works even better. You want the screen big enough for your chameleons nails but not so big that it allows food items to pass through it. If the screen is too small, it may rip out a nail resulting in an almost permanent loss (they take a very long time to grow). Personally I have never had a problem with this, however I have seen a few cases of it on the message boards. Be sure this screen is also rip-proof and heat resistant to a certain degree.
 
Decorations in the cage are a must. Live plants are certainly no, essential in your animals enclosure. They are natural, provide much needed cover, and are very good at achieving and maintaining humidity. Be careful with your choice, many common tropical plants are toxic even to chameleons. Ficus, pothos, schefflera and hibiscus are among very popular plants for a chameleons cage. Veiled chameleons will make a hasty snack from eating the leaves and blossoms. Other popular decorations include bendable vines, driftwood, grapevine, artificial plants (silk is the most realistic) and other branches. Heat rocks are not for chameleons, they are very infamous for burning animals and have caused many deaths. Be creative but remember you want to duplicate your animals natural habitat as much as possible.

Substrates spark a very disputable topic. Some argue that in the wild chameleons have a substrate on the forest floor and there should be no problem. Others argue they don't need a substrate because they rarely come to the ground so therefore have little contact with it. However there is no doubt that if the chameleon happens to ingest some of the substrate, it may block the digestive system which can lead to impaction usually resulting in paralysis or death; very dangerous. It is purely up to you. If you prefer to use substrate I recommend only Eco-Earth, peat moss, or fine potting soil without perlite or fertilisers; avoid wood chips at all cost. Do not use cedar or spruce. Use only substrates commercially and specifically made for reptiles/amphibians.

Many owners build their own cages. They can be as simple or elaborate as you allow yourself to create. It can be something as simple as a frame of wood stapling or screwing on hardware cloth or screen. Or you can go a step further and create a nice cabinet with built in lighting and a drainage system. Either way some things to avoid are pressure treated wood. Woods such as pine, spruce and most soft woods should be sealed with varethane or urethane first and set for a few days to cure and to alleviate the fumes. These coats must sit at least three days or so before having an animal near it.

When choosing screen size, you do not want too small; your chameleons nails may get stuck or torn. You also do not want too big, insects may escape. The best type of screening is aluminum, or PVC coated hardware cloth.

If you have any further questions on building a chameleon cage, feel free to contact me via message board or through e-mail or instant messenger I will gladly help out.

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to contact me at jumaunji@hotmail.com